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Dries Van Noten Spring 2023 Menswear

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Dries Van Noten Spring 2023 Menswear

” The Zazous was in Paris during the 1940s and Buffalo in London during the 1980s. These periods were somewhat similar. It was difficult times. We wanted our own version.” Dries van Noten stated that he had been studying male subcultures to find inspiration for this season. This was a powerful opening statement. Louche pinstripe tailoring in dandified style, with camisoles and lingerie pink body-con “corsets”, disrupted by camisoles. He called it “Masculine-feminine.”

The Zazous were underground rebels that wore loudly and frequented jazz clubs and bars, defying the Nazi occupation in Paris. Ray Petri, a British subversive style leader who was founded Buffalo during Margaret Thatcher’s time, created the British-style movement Buffalo. These are our Right-swinging days, and you can see the importance of Van Noten wanting to make a queer antiauthoritarian reference.

His suit silhouettes with the double-breasted jackets in contrasting colors and drapey pants were perfect as standalones. Dries van Noten’s simple and elegant style was exemplified in the second version, which featured a jacket and trousers in slightly different shades.

But he was intrigued by underground subcultures. This was part of his decision to use the roof of a carpark for the venue. He put on the second part of his collection, “Garage scene grifters. Cowboys. Sleepy dreamers.” He explored the youth motocross fashion trend, mixing track pants and bike pants and making them satin. Here he added Western shirting to his collection and styled cowboy boots with shorts.

In the summer heat, you can see where Van Noten’s casually dressed Van Noten: Next year’s festivals, and all-night raves. This offering is sure to attract a younger audience. Who knows what? Perhaps, with all the super-stylish dressing seen at the shows and on the streets this week, the youth will be opting for the dandy suits.

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