Camille Miceli touched down in Capri this week with her launch collection for Emilio Pucci, making a splash in the still not-so-warm, late-April waters with an intense “experience” enjoyed by 160 guests flown in from Paris, Milan, and London. The US contingent was represented by the rapper Gunna, whose performance capped off three Pucci-fied days of activations and dolce vita–decadent dinners and hours-long lunches at Bagni di Tiberio; morning yoga classes for stylish Pucci yoginis; and “how-to-style-a-scarf” lessons in the label’s store on Via Camerelle, the island’s mini via Montenapoleone.
The see-now/buy-now collection, called La Grotta Azzurra, was presented in live at various tableaux vivants on the island. Pucci-clad models looked very a l’aise around the environment. Nor surprisingly so, as Capri was Marchese Emilio Pucci’s beloved holiday destination, where his high society friends-turned-clients used to spend long barefoot summers.
After many incarnations of Pucci, the talented and cool Miceli has taken over the reinvigorated label. Their approach seems both straightforward and complex in equal measures. She said that Pucci is not a brand with a concept, but a lifestyle brand. Therefore, the label’s message must be clear. This doesn’t necessarily mean that you have to reduce its impact. It’s quite the opposite. It means that Miceli will reenergize it, enhancing the joie-de vivre element already in its code. The attractive, trans-generational nature of energy is what makes it appealing to younger audiences. To engage them, you can make the label more positive and even a little bit trippy.
Miceli highlighted the “humanity” and “unique sensibility of Pucci, which she enhanced by hand-drawn versions of famous prints. She explained that she thinks that digital patterns remove Pucci’s motifs from the imperfections that make them unique. The new collection is filled with cool, covetable separates. The prints are often used only as contrast details: a colorful padded trim to a black or brown cotton cropped jacket, a printed foulard that crisscrosses a short black shift dress and a floral-flame motif at the front.