Paco Rabanne’s always about some kind of celebration spirit.” Julien Dossena opened a discussion about Zoom’s cruise collection from Paris. Dossena’s fantasy adventures seem to be somewhere in between the 1960s & 1980s. They are interwoven with modern 2020s French-girl styling.
This particular collection is clearly a reference to a 1968 comedy featuring Peter Sellers. If explanation fails us, we can see the faux backdrop and some glittery mini-midi maxi silhouettes. Dossena shared how he discovered The Party . “It’s really funny and aesthetically really interesting because it’s all set in a kind of LA film producer’s house in Hollywood in the ’60s, a crowded party with a lot of different looks and attitudes that was super interesting to work on–to get to that celebration spirit in a way that could be a little bit off in the proportions.”
Really, though, Dossena was more focused on putting forth “direct, easy, accessible” clothes. It’s a good thing, too, since Blake Edwards’ now-obscure comedy relies on Dossena’s clutzy star wearing brownface pretending to Hrundi V.bakshi, an accident-prone “Indian” actor. Although the film is not currently available, Wikipedia states that it was very popular in India during the period. Dossena felt that the ’70 party theme was the perfect setting for his lurex knits. He wore matching bras and maxi-tube skirts with matching bras. His playful references to the Paco Rabanne house heritage (paillettes, sequins and chainmail) is a great example of Dossena’s clever riffs.
Dossena zoomed in on the photos and described the tiny, silver-sequin-trimmed dress as “Edie Sedgwick’s mini dress”! The slinkier silhouettes were made from stretch jersey, and a high-slit, maxi-skirt was held in place by a brooch. The glistening, silver-to-gold, paillette gown, which is further enhanced with sparkling crystals, would please anyone looking to continue the Met Gala’s “gilded” theme through next fall.
Meanwhile, the accessories nestling amongst the clothes tell the story of how Dossena has popularized and commercialized Paco Rabanne for a new generation. These tiny “jewelry” chains, some made of linked metallic leather and others with jangly-heart-shaped paillettes have a teenage “holiday gift.”
Dossena is also a skilled tailor. A few more mature ‘Sergeant Pepper’military pantsuits’ with silver-plated piping and spanking-smart metal piping showed that he has some other skills. Perhaps that is a sign of the future when Dossena has the opportunity to show his next collection on runway in Paris within a few weeks. This will be where he can experiment more freely.